Sign, sealed, delivered

Dec 14, 20008 - today with a bit of remorse, I sold my 1977 BMW R100S. I meet a beemer-head Ron who is building his collection of fine BMW airheads.

Ron had listed a very nice BMW 2000 R1100RS silver bike that I was looking at online.

We swapped bikes, and I will be helping Ron fix some minor items.

I have spent many hours, some frustrating, most satisfying working on my first airhead, the thrill of working on a 31 year old bike, instilled a bug in me I must continue, so I will be searching for the next project bike.

Engine Oil and Filter Change

Mileage on Bike
35607

It has been 6 months since I did the first oil change, I went ahead and changed the oil, oil filter, new o-ring and metal shim. The kit comes with new crush washer for the oil drain plug.

BMW Part Number
11 42 1 337 570

I have to be very careful the get the shim and the o-ring on their right, so we do not mess up the oil pressure.

Final Drive Repair

I re-installed my final drive tonight. Perry's Motorcycle repaired the filler plug on the drive shaft. A good tip Perry gave me, when reinstalling the final drive, use the axle to keep it straight when inserting back into the cup, etc. This will line up the teeth on the drift shaft correctly.

Reinstalled all plug with new crush washer, tightened everyting up.

Filled with BMW Hypoid Gear Oil

• 100cc in the drive shaft
• 250cc in the final drive

Rust-eze

Removed rust from under and backside of mufflers on left and right, pretty straight forward cosmetic work.

Cheap Plug for a vendor

I utilized Rust-eze Medication Bumper Ointment, proud sponsor of Lighting McQueen in Disney/Pixar movie Cars.

"Man with rusteze, I was able to get all the crud, rust, muck, and grime off my bumper, now my wife says my bumper is looking oh so fine."

Before.........................After

$4 carb sync tool

This article should be printed out for any airhead, VTwin mechanic

http://www.airheads.org/content/view/183/98/

I have tried the carb sync method of shorting out each cylinder, but I'm not experienced enough to detect the sound differences, so I thought I would try this method. Now the online forums recognize this technique, but argue that it is less effective given it is only measuring vacuum differences. I thought I would give is a shot, and for $4 buck it can not hurt at this point to get the vacuum right.

I built my tool from parts from Lowes, 3.87 in tubing, and a yard stick. I used motor oil, because that is what I had sitting around.

PICTURE OF TOOL HERE

I built the tool ,and hung it from the garage door railings over night to let the oil settle to the the bottom on the tubing. The next day went for a 30 min ride, and came back in synced the carbs at idle, using the idle screw stop.

I will need to sync the carbs with the new throttle cables, but I need a second set of hands which are not here right now.

October Recap, Future Work

• Trans Fluid
• New Spark Plugs
• New Choke, Throttle Cables
• New Brake Pads
• New Brake Fluid
• New Carb Kits
• New Brake Kits

November (no more Riding predicted)

• Sync Carbs
• Get some final riding in
  

Dec-Feb (Winter Projects, Storage)

• Stabilize Fuel
• Trickle Charger every two weeks for battery
• Final Drive stripped screw, fix with helicoil
  
• Lube transmission/clutch spline with back end off
  
• Top end, new rubber pushrod seals, inspect top end
• Start on cosmetics, start with simple rust on mufflers
• Oil change over winter, remove oil pan inspect oil pump and strainer
  

New brake fuild, wrapping up

Well , it is the end of October, I put the carbs, and brakes, and front wheel all back together now.

I added brake fluid, DOT 3, which is recommended by Clymer and the forums. I bleed the brakes, and it feels pretty good, no bubbles in the line. I will test ride, and bleed a little more if necessary. I put the tank back on and took it for a test ride.

The carbs need adjusting quickly, since putting all new cables, etc on. This is my next procedure, build a carb stick and balance them until she purrs.